Knowledge is Power

The most important tool of any reptile keeper’s trade is information –  information about an animal. Its natural habitat, feeding preferences, temperature and humidity requirements, and breeding behavior among others are the keys to keeping any species successfully. With the following species, information may be hard to gather.  The first thing to do is to try and find someone who already keeps them. Picking the brains of experienced keepers is an excellent way to gain knowledge of the care requirements of any species of animal.  Other good sources are care sheets and books specifically keyed towards the genus or species in question.  However, with the more unusual species, these can be either non-existent or hard to find. In the event that you cannot find a care sheet or book,  looking into the natural habitat of the animal is an excellent way to get a starting point for husbandry.  Does it come from a rainforest or desert? What kind of plant life is found there? What niche does it occupy? What are the average daily temperatures and humidity like?  These types of questions are key in providing the correct environment for your animal.

“Poor Man’s Leachie” (Gehyra marginata)

This species is probably the easiest of the four to maintain.  Gehyra marginata, or the Halmahera Giant Gecko, is often called the “poor man’s leachie” due to their similarities to Rhacodactylus leachianus and their much lower price tag.  Commonly mislabeled as “Vorax” geckos, these animals are in fact a different species than Gehyra vorax, which is extremely rare in US collections. The main difference between the two is eye color.  G. vorax has amber colored eyes, while the much more commonly seen G. marginata has green.  These large, arboreal geckos come from Indonesia, Fiji, Papua New Guinea, and several other islands in that  region. They can reach up to 13 inches in length, with the average adult being about 10 inches.  These geckos are normally a brown or tan coloration with some saddling, and can become lighter or darker according to the time of day, their mood, temperatures, and other factors..  These lizards are very hardy, and can be maintained similarly to Tokay Geckos.  I keep an adult pair in a Rubbermaid container the equivalent of a 30 gallon aquarium.  Height is important:  these geckos seldom come to the ground.  They are normally very shy, and they appreciate many places to hide and lots of things to climb on.  I provide large branches about the thickness of my wrist, plastic plants, egg crate, and  hollow cork bark tubing to hide in.  Substrate is coco fiber over a drainage layer of Hydroton, and is covered sporadically with sphagnum moss.  G. marginata are from lush, tropical forests and appreciate high humidity.  Heat is provided with a 60 watt nocturnal (red) bulb.  These geckos like temperatures in the mid 80′s (F), with a basking spot of 90 F.  A water dish is always provided, though they seldom use it.  I mist them once a day in the evening to provide an increase in humidity at night.

My Halmahera Giant Geckos are fed a diet consisting of roaches, super worms, and Crested Gecko Diet (CGD).  Believe it or not, they prefer the CGD over anything else. I also provide a dish of calcium powder in the cage and have observed the female eating it.

As far as handling goes, use caution when handling this species.  Some imported adults can be quite aggressive, and obtaining captive bred animals is always preferable.  They are very quick and have delicate skin.  It will tear easily so don’t grab them (grabbing is also a good way to elicit a bite).  Instead, put a bit of honey on your finger and wait patiently near the gecko. These animals have a real sweet tooth, and honey will go a long way towards earning their trust.

It should be noted that these geckos are highly territorial, and keeping multiple animals together should be done with caution.  When pairing animals, watch carefully for signs of incompatibility, and separate immediately if they are seen.  Not all pairs are compatible.  Once established, a pair will breed year round with some regularity.  The eggs are very large and can take up to 5 months to hatch. Hatchlings can be maintained like adults in miniaturized versions of the setup.

These geckos are underrated, in my opinion. They are very easily maintained, extremely hardy, impressive, and have a subtle beauty to them.  As with many species that are commonly sold as imports; more efforts need to be made to establish a captive bred population of these amazing geckos.

“Giant Bent Toed” (Cyrtodactylus irianjayaensis)

These are among my favorite geckos.  These large, semi-terrestrial geckos are often sold as Giant Bent Toed Geckos, Giant Bow Fingered Geckos, or Giant Ring Tailed Geckos.  This species is from Irian Jaya and Papua New Guinea,  and is often confused with Cyrtodactylus lousiadensis, an Australian species.  The difference can be found in the stripes: irianjayaensis has a jagged edge to the striped markings while lousiadensis has smooth edges.  They are a large, robust gecko, with adults reaching over 12 inches.  Bent Toed Geckos are still rather rare in collections and more work needs to be done to establish these interesting animals. They come from cool, tropical areas and require high humidity (70-100%).  My pair lives in a 106 quart Sterilite container with a mix of peat moss and coco fiber as a substrate.  I provide sphagnum moss areas, good sized branches and cork bark along with lots of plants to provide the climbing and hiding options these geckos need.  Always provide a hide for these geckos; they require it to feel secure.  An interesting fact about this species is that it will soak on a fairly regular basis, so provide a water area large enough for the gecko to fit in it.  Misting should be done at least twice a day to maintain high humidity levels.

These geckos are voracious predators and will consume quite large prey items.  I offer my Giant Bent Toed Geckos roaches of two species, along with pinkie mice every so often and super worms.  Feeders should be dusted with a quality calcium powder at every other feeding, every feeding if the female is laying eggs.

Cyrtodactylus have a reputation for being delicate, but I’ve found these geckos to be hardy and easily kept if the requirements are met.  There are many species in this genus, and although not as brightly colored as some geckos, they are all active and inquisitive animals that are a joy to watch at night.  Handling is not generally a good idea as it can stress them easily, and all Bent Toed Geckos have large sharp nails and can give a decent bite. Move slowly when working in the cage and always stay within the animal’s comfort zone when handling.

“Grumpy Geckos” (Cyrtodactylus intermedius)

Along with C. irianjayaensis I also maintain Cyrtodactylus intermedius, the Malaysian “Night Stalker” Bent Toed Gecko.  These geckos are smaller, with an average size of 8-10 inches, and a much more slender build.  Found in Malaysia, these nocturnal lizards are more arboreal than Giant Bent Toed Geckos, and also have a tendency to be more apt to bite. My Night Stalkers will often be heard calling at night. It’s a short, musical chirping sound that is quite charming.  These geckos can be maintained nearly identically to C. irianjayaensis, with things scaled down for their smaller size and a bit more attention paid to their climbing preferences.  I provide a humid environment that is a tangle of vines and plants with many small branches.  Temperatures are kept in the low 70′s, and misting is done twice daily at least.

Night Stalker Bent Toed Geckos will feed on a variety of insect prey. I provide a diet based on roaches, but crickets are accepted just as readily.  Calcium supplementation should be provided at least every other feeding.  These geckos are active hunters, and it is very interesting to watch them chase down insects in the evening.  They spend a lot of time above the ground, and will only retreat to ground hides during the day to sleep.  Most animals are imported and come with heavy parasite loads and can be difficult to acclimate.  I always attempt to breed these more unusual species, as captive bred animals are superior as pets and it is important to take pressure off of wild populations.

“Living Tree Bark” (Uroplatus fimbriatus)

Leaf  Tailed Geckos of the genus Uroplatus are by far my favorite geckos.  These animals are camouflage personified: they are perfectly suited to staying hidden in plain sight.  Leaf  Tailed Geckos hale from the island of Madagascar, and come in a variety of forms. All species of Uroplatus are CITES I listed and are under threat from habitat destruction.  The Giant Leaf  Tailed Gecko, Uroplatus fimbriatus, is one of the most commonly imported, but is also sadly one of the species least frequently bred in captivity.  These large geckos are a wonder to keep, and are very entertaining.

Giant Leaf  Tailed Geckos are large geckos, reaching over 12 inches total length.  They have very large heads and wide mouths.  Uroplatus geckos are unique in that they have the most marginal teeth and the highest number among all living amniotes. They spend their days hanging motionlessly, usually in a head down position.  At night, these large geckos come alive, and are active lizards.

I maintain my pair of Uroplatus fimbriatus in a large, all screen, arboreal enclosure.  It is 24 inches wide, by 24 inches deep, by 36 inches high.  Three sides are covered with plastic to help maintain humidity.  Substrate is a bioactive mix of coco fiber, peat moss, and leaf litter covering a drainage layer of hydroton (expanded clay balls).  Thick branches provide resting places, although the geckos often prefer to spend their time on the screen sides of the enclosure.  Springtails and isopods populate the substrate, allowing for decomposition of wastes.  Live plants are provided, consisting of Snake Plants and Pothos, along with plastic plants for more cover.  Temperatures for Giant Leaf  Tailed Geckos can range from 68-79F, with the low to mid 70s being ideal.  I provide a large water dish with an air stone attached to an aquarium air pump to roil the surface and encourage drinking.  Hydration is very important with these geckos, as they have thin, delicate skin.  My Giant Leaf  Tails are misted twice a day; once lightly in the morning and again heavily for 5-10 minutes right after lights out.  The key is to provide a 90-100% humidity environment at night while allowing the cage to dry out during the day to prevent mold growth.  Screen caging can make it difficult to maintain this in some cases, but by of blocking some of the screen and careful misting the appropriate environment can be maintained. These large geckos do best when kept cool with high humidity and still preventing air from becoming stagnant.

Roaches are the Uroplatus keepers’ best friend.  These large geckos really are too big for crickets, and roaches elicit an excellent feeding response and are a great staple diet. Giant Leaf  Tailed Geckos will ignore prey that is too small and will rarely eat any sort of “worm” like superworms or mealworms.  Calcium levels are key in breeding females, and I supplement roaches every feeding.

Giant Leaf  Tailed Geckos are not a beginner species, but once you do your research, familiarize yourself with the genus, and have the correct requirements, healthy animals are fairly easy to maintain.  Breeding is somewhat of a challenge with this species. Some Uroplatus keepers adovocate Full Spectrum UVB lighting with Leaf  Tailed Geckos, and I agree. My adults are given 12 hour exposure daily to a 5.0 UVB bulb and thrive with it.  These geckos are rarely bred in captivity, and it is imperative that more captive bred animals be established.  Madagascar’s forests are in great peril, and the flow of imports will not be there forever.

So there you have it; four “oddball” gecko species.  These are all geckos that have their own individual aspects that make them a joy to keep.  Every day is a wonder for me as I enter my reptile room to see parts of the world from all over ensconced in one room.  Every second I spend with these animals I am learning more about them, and attempt to practice better husbandry and, with work, breed them so that I can do my part to lessen the pressure on wild populations.  So, the next time you are in the market for a gecko, consider something a bit different.  You might be surprised at just how incredible an oddball can be.

Naultinus geckos are a genus of gecko that I was always fascinated with but never thought that I would have the opportunity to work with.  What made these secretive geckos so interesting to me was their beautiful colors and appearance, their diurnal and arboreal nature, and that they are live-bearing geckos that come from a completely different environment than most other geckos out there.  I was always curious as to why these geckos could withstand prolonged periods of cold and thrive while most other gecko species needed a relatively warm climate.  How did evolution play a part in this genus and how could they have survived for this long by producing a maximum of two offspring per season?  Being that these geckos are such low producing animals, they will never be readily available to the consumer, and therefore they will also have a relatively high price tag.  These traits make Naultinus a gecko for gecko lovers, not for those looking for an “investment animal”. With this being said there will always be a demand and a lot of hype surrounding these mystical creatures.    

The Naultinus grayii comes from the Northern section of the North island of New Zealand where it is typically found in bushes of the tea tree plant.  This species lives the majority of its life off of the ground, and its green and white pattern provides it excellent camouflage.  At times an animal will be right in front of my eyes on a bush and it takes me a minute to see it, and then I almost feel dumb for not having seen it right away.  The grayii is a very patient predator. They do not stalk their prey like other geckos, instead they wait for an insect to come within striking distance and then they make their move on it.  This must help the gecko preserve its strength since in the cold climate they live in they can’t afford to waste any energy.

Housing Naultinus grayii

I keep a pair of adult naultinus grayii in an 18” x 18” x 36” zoo med screen cage.   I furnish the enclosure with dense hanging brush, cork flats, and as ground cover I use a cork tube as a hide.  I also offer them vines and other pieces of wood to climb on, and I observe them using these occasionally to relocate themselves to another part of the enclosure, or to bask on.  I have this pair setup in as naturalistic  a setup as possible attempting to replicate their indigenous natural climate and landscape as much as possible.  Although they are mostly in the hanging brush they will occasionally go into a moist hide on the ground of this enclosure to shed or to retreat.  I use a layered substrate of eucalyptus leaves, eucalyptus mulch, wood chips, and New Zealand sphagnum moss in this order from bottom to top layer.  I use this mixed ground cover because the eucalyptus has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties while the top layer of moss and wood chips holds water while helping to keep the ambient humidity up.  I spray the foliage and the inside of the moist hide every morning and never let the temperature in the screen cube rise above 80F in the summer. In the winter I cool these geckos to temperatures as cold as 40F.  In all seasons I provide these geckos with ample UV light.  I use three 18” 5.0 UVB fluorescent strip lights on top of the cage and one additional exo-terra fluorescent 5.0 bulb which sits directly above a bush where the geckos can bask.  I provide basking spots from as close as 1 inch from these lights to ensure proper UVB exposure which is essential to this geckos’ well-being. 

Care and Breeding

I feed my naultinus as much variety as I can.  Staple insects include but are not limited to roaches (dubia, banana, and Madagascar hissing), gut-loaded crickets, blue bottle flies, waxworms and waxmoths, silkworms, hornworms, and on occasion they will get a superworm or a mealworm.  I rotate the gutload of the feeders constantly and I cycle the brands of vitamins and minerals that I dust prey items with.  This extensive feeding regimen seems to contribute to the good overall health of this gecko, no question. 

Naultinus grayii require a lengthy brumation period of very low temperatures to successfully conceive and produce offspring.  These animals will breed in the early springtime and give birth anywhere from late summer to the end of fall having either one or two live born neonates per season.  Once the juveniles are birthed they can fend for themselves and can be housed either separately which is best or with their litter mate or another grayii of similar age. 

   

Difficulties in Obtaining Naultinus

Aside from the limited amount of offspring a single female can produce, these geckos are very difficult to obtain due to the laws surrounding them and their transport.  They are marked on Appendice III of CITES (the convention on international trade in endangered species of wild fauna and flora), which makes their export or import tricky, as several requirements need to be met in order for permission to be granted by this organization.  Since New Zealand doesn’t allow any of their wildlife to be exported it is impossible to acquire wild caught animals, or even captive bred animals from within New Zealand.  Because of this, as well as the high dollar amount being paid for Naultinus, in recent times it has become quite common for individuals to attempt to smuggle these geckos;  this has put added pressure on natural animal populations.  To obtain legal documentation for export of  Naultinus from Europe to the U.S., for example, one must prove that the animal was not obtained illegally. This is done by showing that the animal has been produced in captivity from legally acquired parents which doesn’t sound too bad, but many of the animals out there are not documented with legal paperwork even though the animals themselves are captive bred animals.

I feel that these geckos are one of Earth’s precious jewels and I am grateful to have the opportunity to be working with them. They truly are a rewarding species to work with.  I have high hopes for my pair this season and time will tell whether they will produce young, but at this time in the summer all signs point to the female being gravid.  Good times…

I have kept Flying Geckos on and off over the years and am very excited to be working with them again.  I am going to go over some details on how I care for these unusual and underrated geckos.  They are very fun to watch, but they do not like to be handled. Flying geckos are interested in what goes on outside the cage and will watch you from concealed perches.  It is neat to notice a little gecko staring at you from around a stick or a rock.  They also like to hide in plain sight relying on their camouflage to keep them safe.  They will hunt in the daylight if the prey item is something they really enjoy: my big female will come out and get Phoenix worms anytime.  Although they are known as “flying geckos”, you will never see them glide unless placed into about a 40g tank or larger. Even then it is rare to catch them at it. If I could make room for a 4′x4′x4′ enclosure that is where they would be living.
 

Planning for a Flying Gecko

 Flying Geckos are about 6” long. Wild Caught (WC) animals live 3-5 years. Captive Born & Bred (CBB) flying geckos have been known to live to almost 10 years. Males have a pronounced row of pre-anal pores.  Females lack these pronounced pores.  Flying geckos have a wide range of vocalizations and occasionally can be rather talkative.  Males will make a series of chirps when they are trying to attract a female.  Both sexes make alarm calls when grasped.

Flying geckos are definitely not for the beginner gecko keeper.  They need high humidity, day/ night cycles and a well set up vivarium.  Wild Caught  animals often have high parasite loads in the form of tiny red mites and occasionally worms.  Consequently, many imported geckos die of stress and disease.  Wild Caught geckos are aggressive, and will bite, squeak and thrash if grasped.  Captive Born & Bred  animals do not normally suffer from parasite problems and with some work can even be tame.  On a scale of 1-5 (1 being easy, 5 being master gecko keeper), I would give these animals a 3 for a WC and a 2 for a CBB.

 If you get a WC animal, it will have mites.  These parasites love flying geckos; the skin flaps are ideal mite homes.  To remove these blood sucking fiends, take a Q-tip dipped lightly in vegetable oil and gently rub off the mites.  Your gecko will not be happy and you will be bitten.  I find letting the gecko bite me makes it easier to de-mite it.  Check the geckos every few days for more mites for at least 3 weeks, then check every week for 3 more weeks.  Remove mites as needed.

Housing

Flying Gecko Cage. Click to enlarge.

These geckos are arboreal.  Cages that are tall rather than wide are best suited to keeping this species.  Males can not be kept together as they will fight. Females get along with other females pretty well if there is enough space for them all.  I recommend a 20 Tall style tank (24”x13”x17” or 61x33x43.2 cm) for 1-2 flying geckos and increasing size by 10 gallons for each flying gecko added.  Many decorations are preferred, and dense foliage is something any flier will enjoy.  Another cage decoration that I find to be instrumental to keeping these animals is cork bark backgrounds.  They will simulate the tree trunks they inhabit in the wild.  A shallow water dish is also needed, though you must add rocks or something they can climb onto as they are not good at swimming. Eco Earth, Bed-A-Beast and Coco Fiber all work well as substrates.

 Humidity should be maintained at 70-85%.  Daytime temps of 90°, no higher than 95°, are best.  Night temperatures can be into the 70’s.  Do not let the night temperatures get below 70°.  If needed use a night light to provide additional heat. For lighting I use a full spectrum UVB/UVA light and a 75-100w heating bulb.  Lights should vary seasonally: 10 hours of light during the winter, 12 hours during the spring and fall, and 14 hours in the summer

Feeding and Supplementation

I find that flying geckos will eat most anything that skitters, jumps or crawls.  I offer mine Blatta Lateralis (Turkistan) roaches, crickets, and phoenix worms.  My animals have shown no interest in mealworms.  I feed them every other day, 4-6 prey items per gecko.  Occasionally some individual animals may eat sweet fruit or nectar, so I give mine Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) every now and then as a treat.  They seem to prefer Fig and Mango flavored CGD.  Some flying geckos will eat insects from feeding dishes.  I dust their food with Calcium with D3 every other feeding and use a multivitamin dust once a week.  Phoenix worms do not need to be dusted.

 Mist the cage 3 times a day and leave a water dish in the tank. The  water in the dish should be changed daily.  Some animals will drink from water dishes, but not all will do this.

Breeding

In captivity flying geckos may breed year round.  Mine tend to start breeding in mid summer.   I have noticed that weather plays a role as well; every time it rains my pair goes into mating mode.  About 2-3 weeks after mating the female will lay 2 eggs glued to something, usually the worst place for you.  They like to find what they think are secure areas, and often that is just under the lid of the tank or other area where you are likely to accidentally crunch them.  To help them find areas that are secure, place cork bark tubes or bamboo in the tank with holes big enough for them to enter. Eggs take 60-90 days to hatch.  If possible remove them from the enclosure and incubate at 78°.  Eggs can be left in the enclosure if you cannot remove them.  If they are glued to the tank or large piece of cage furniture, do not try to remove them, since they are very fragile. I do not know if flying geckos will eat their offspring or not, so I take no chances and set up the babies in their own enclosure.  I use a 12”x12”x18” Exo-Terra vivarium for them.

Hatchlings are very small, about 1.5” in total length.  They usually go through their first shed within 8-12 hours of hatching and will then begin feeding.  Offer them Fruit Flies (Hydei), week-old crickets, small roach nymphs, and small phoenix worms.  Rear them in the same conditions as adults.  Be sure to feed them every day.
There are no known morphs at this time.  Flying geckos do have a wide range of natural wood colors and even blacks.  They can alter color depending on their mood and can camouflage themselves.

I find they are a very underrated gecko and deserve more of our attention in the hobby.  I hope that this guide to their care inspires you to get a flying gecko or 2 of your own.

Over the years, I have worked with a number of terrestrial gecko species. My favorite of these is the helmeted gecko of Northern Africa. They have a very unique look and make up for their small size with a big personality. Until recently these geckos have been labeled as Geckonia chazalia, but they have recently been reclassified as Tarentola chazalia. They get their common name, “helmeted gecko”, from a row of enlarged scales lining the back of the head. This gives the shape and appearance of a “helmet”.

This species is a small, but sturdily built gecko. Adults are 3” – 4” in length with relatively short tails. The males are noticeably smaller than the females. I have kept this species for several years and enjoy them immensely. These little geckos show little fear of humans. Mine quickly learn to associate my presence with food. When I enter the room, they come to the front of the tanks and pace back and forth, waiting for handouts. They will readily take food from tongs, or even from my fingers. They tolerate gentle handling quite well, but must be handled with care due to their small size. I also find them to be very vocal geckos, with lots of quiet little “chirps” and “grunts” whenever they are active. Their helmeted heads may appear to give them a constantly angry or stern expression, but they are really an easy going and entertaining gecko.

Helmeted geckos are naturally found in a fairly narrow strip along the Northwest coast of Africa, primarily in the arid, rocky deserts of Morocco. In their native habitat, these geckos are usually found under rocks or other debris during the day, which creates a slightly cooler and moister microclimate. Rainfall is quite rare in their range, but the areas where these geckos are found commonly receive heavy fogs, which roll in off the Atlantic Ocean. This is the primary source of moisture for creatures living in these coastal deserts.

Care

These are hardy little geckos that will thrive if given the proper care. Like most geckos, they require a temperature gradient, which allows them to choose a location with a temperature to their liking. I use an undertank heater, which creates a warm end of approximately 85º – 90ºF during the day. The cool end of the cage ranges from 75º – 80º. I allow a nighttime drop in temperature, as well as allowing a winter cooling period for my adult breeders. A 10 gallon tank can easily house a pair or a trio of these small geckos. They will actively explore their habitat, so a variety of rocks and branches will be well utilized. I have witnessed little or no aggression among members of this species, although I have never tried to keep more than one male in an enclosure. I use a substrate of sand for adults and paper towel for new hatchlings. Some keepers have reported that UV light may be beneficial for this species, especially for babies. I have raised all of my animals without UV and have had no problems. Some sources also claim that helmeted geckos are strictly terrestrial and cannot climb glass. I have not found this to be true, as I have found my geckos on the glass walls of their tanks on numerous occasions. For this reason, it is best to have a secure lid on your animal’s cage.

 When I first acquired this species I was told that hydration was the key to successfully keeping them, and I have found this to be true. Even though they come from a harsh desert environment, the moist fog, which is a regular occurrence in their habitat, creates a more humid condition than one might at first think. I give my helmeted geckos a light misting daily, and give the cool end of their enclosure a heavier misting approximately once a week so that the lower layers of the substrate retain some moisture. However, you do not want these geckos in a constantly moist environment, so good air circulation is important.

These geckos are active and aggressive feeders. I am often surprised by how much they eat for their size in comparison to some of my other geckos. They aggressively chase and consume prey as soon as it is placed in their tank. I feed them roaches, crickets, and mealworms. I dust insects at every feeding with Repashy Calcium Plus. It is also important that breeding females are offered food often and have access to extra calcium as they may have health problems if they aren’t fed and supplemented properly during this stressful time.

I have found my females to be prolific egg layers. Even before I had any males to go with my 3 females, they began to lay eggs like clockwork. Once a male was added to the group in 2008, I began to get eggs that were fertile. Early on, I had some issues with incubation and had a number of eggs that went bad late in the developmental process, as well as a couple of newborn hatchlings that failed to thrive and died soon after hatching. I made some changes to my incubation methods, and late in the season had some success in producing my first CB babies. The babies are small, but robust, and grow quite quickly. My adult breeding groups now consist of 2 males and 3 females arranged to produce two lines of unrelated offspring. I have eggs in the incubator and have high hopes of producing more offspring in 2009.

Once quite common in the pet trade, these geckos have become much harder to find. A few breeders are successfully reproducing this species, but others have found them challenging to reproduce. If you are lucky enough to find some of these unique and personable geckos, I’m sure you will thoroughly enjoy these easy going, and interesting geckos as much as I enjoy mine. They are truly unique in both appearance and personality.

We asked breeders this one question. What makes keeping leopard geckos special to you?

The answers rolled in and we are thankful to all who participated!

Ron Tremper of LeopardGecko.com:

For me leopard geckos are a form of living art with a wide pallet of possibilities. Many people have discovered their magic. They are easy to keep and breed and the market is still expanding worldwide. The future is strong for this species of gecko. For 31 generations I have enjoyed making the gecko mutations that I think will interest other hobbyists. It’s a challenge that has many rewards.

Marcia McGuiness of Golden Gate Geckos:

Although I work with 6 gecko species, I love working with Leopard Geckos because they are beautiful, simple to care for, require no lighting, are a manageable size, live a long time, and are easy to tame. They each have distinct personalities, and always seem to have a smile on their faces!

Daidra Salyers of Leopard Gecko Lair:

I love keeping leopard geckos for many reasons. I love the leopard gecko’s temperament and also their personality,which are all different in many aspects. I also love the variety of colors they come in, because they all look beautiful. Finally, the number 1 reason I love keeping leopard geckos, is the whole breeding process, the genetics behind each morph of leopard gecko which is being produced and being able to watch the babies being born and growing into adults.

Summer Johnson of Celebrity Geckos:

We have a true appreciation for leopard geckos and a genuine passion for what we do. They are unique and wonderful animals, each with their own distinct personality. It’s great fun to love and care for them. For this reason, leopard geckos make rewarding and loving family pets!

James Dunn of Okeechobee Reptiles:

For me keeping leopard geckos was out of my control. I started with just one and by the time I realized what was going on I had thirty. Leopard geckos as a rule are docile and easy to take care of but display a wide variety of colors only rivaled by colubrids and ball pythons. I guess it was the mad scientist in me that brought me to where I am today. I love seeing what is going to pop out of the incubator next.

What about you?

Why do you like leopard geckos, what makes them special to you? Tell us below in your comment!

Photo in the lead image is taken by Malt Geckos

Viper geckos have gained popularity lately and for a very good reason. This species is easy to keep and is quite rewarding. Viper geckos only grow 3.5 inches ad females can lay 10 to 20 clutches a season!

Gecko Time asked several breeders and keepers of viper geckos one question: What makes viper geckos special to you and why do you enjoy keeping them? They replied with the following:

Hannah Martin of Greyscale Geckos:

Viper geckos were my first small species of gecko to own, and I certainly will never regret purchasing them. They are so docile and that has led me to joke that viper geckos are simply leopard geckos crammed into a small package. I honestly can’t say enough about their tame personalities and interesting looks. I believe this species has a lot of potential to become a favorite in the gecko community!

Teri of A-1 Reptiles:

The things that I like most about the Viper Gecko specie is the unique patterns down their backs. Their size being one of the smallest gecko specie they are easily housed, eat very little and are a great beginner specie as they breed very easily and go from baby to breeder in eight months.

Jeff of JMG Reptiles:

We have been working with viper geckos for over eight years now and they are one of our favorite small terrestrial geckos to work with. Viper geckos are great for people who want a small gecko for a pet or for somebody who is looking to start a breeding project with a really cool animal. Male viper geckos are not territorial so you can keep as many adult male viper geckos together as you want. One of our favorite things about the viper geckos is there disposition, they are calm and are on one of the few small terrestrial geckos you can handle with out worrying about them running off. They are also easy to keep and breed, females can lay 20 clutches a year and the baby’s are hardy for a small gecko.

Like viper geckos?

Can’t get enough of these cute little geckos? Do not worry, you are not alone. We’ve gathered together some more information for you.

Viper Gecko Care Sheets: HC Network’s viper care sheet, Supreme Gecko’s viper care sheet, and The Lizard Wizard’s viper care sheet.

Viper Gecko Breeders: each person we’ve interviewed breeds viper geckos and may have them available at any time.

Talk to us!

Why do you like viper geckos? Know another care sheet or breeder? Tell us all in your comment below!

The lesser known and rarer U. sphyrurus is contained in a relatively small portion of South Eastern Queensland and Northwestern New South Wales on Australia’s East Coast. The geographic regions that this species inhabits are primarily open forest and woodlands associated with rocky outcroppings of granite, basalt, sandstone and metamorphic rock. The majority of the habitat that U. sphyrurus is found in incorporates granite outcrops.  In their natural habitat, U. sphyrurus is commonly found at the base of the rock outcroppings with easy access to the forest/woodland habitat to forage for prey items.

Underwoodisaurus milii contrarily is found over the entire continent of Australia, in every state.  Like their cousin, U. milii are primarily found in woodland habitats however other habitats include temperate forests on the eastern side of the Great Dividing Range as well as the outskirts of the Western Plateau deserts (Great Sandy, Gibson, and Great Victoria).  Inhabits of east side of the great dividing range are rare because of the temperature differences to the western portion, however there have been recorded specimens found South of Sydney near Wollongong and near Brisbane as well as others.

There are two fairly distinct forms of Underwoodisaurus milii; the southern form and the eastern form.  Additional genetic analysis needs to be completed to understand how different the two lineages are.  The Eastern form is commonly found from the southern portion of the country to the North Coast of the Northern territory.  The Southern form is widely scattered throughout the entire continent and both forms have been to integrate in areas where their distribution overlaps.

When in the field, both species frequent environments that have a canopy cover of around 50% with high leaf litter cover on the ground.  Most shelter sites are comprised of rocks, decaying wood piles, logs, and the litter covering rocky soil.  The vegetation species themselves are of little importance to the preferences of Underwoodisaurus species.

Photos courtesy of David; Wollongong, Australia