Housing Leopard Geckos on Sand: The Great Debate
Whether it be a fine-particle sand or calcium-based, sand is a common substrate that is sold for leopard geckos and other desert reptiles. The mentality behind it is that because leopard geckos are native to deserts, they should be housed on sand, but most deserts are not filled with loose sand. Leopard geckos are native to Southern Asia, Pakistan, and Northwest India, and these deserts are not big sand boxes. These locations are more likely to be composed of compressed rock and clay instead. The land does have a variety of loose sand, pebbles, and other substrates in their native range, but the bulk of the land is compressed versus loose.
Impaction is Caused by Sand
The native habitat of leopard geckos does contain a variety of substrates, so it’s not impossible for them to ingest loose sand. In fact, it’s actually very common for reptiles in the wild to ingest substrate material. In most cases, they actually receive minerals from the sand and substrate, but keep in mind that wild animals have a different lifestyle than animals in captivity. In captivity impaction is a big concern when housing leopard geckos on sand. Impaction occurs when an animal’s digestive tract is blocked. This can potentially be deadly if the signs of an impaction aren’t recognized. The most basic and initial sign of an impaction is sand in the fecal matter. You may also notice constipation, straining to excrete fecal matter, slight leg trembles, regurgitation, bumps along the spine, lack of appetite, lethargy, and a blue-bruised area on the abdomen. So, when you’re purchasing the bag of reptile sand, keep in mind the potential risks you are taking when putting your juvenile leopard gecko or adult leopard gecko on the sand.
Impaction May not be Caused by Sand
Although I would rather be safe than sorry, there is another perspective about impaction, which basically says that impaction is not caused by sand but inadequate care. There are a few breeders and leopard gecko keepers who do use sand as a base substrate in their enclosures with this mindset. These keepers feel that sand is the secondary cause of impaction, not the primary. Inadequate heating, dehydration, poor nutrition and diet, parasites, and stress cause the body extra strain. When the body is stressed, the immune system and other bodily systems do not function as well, which can hinder the body’s ability to pass the sand substrate that has been ingested. By keeping the temperatures at the correct level, supplementing the diet with vitamins and minerals, watching the water in the water bowl, and ensuring that your leopard gecko is healthy, you can potentially prevent impaction while still using sand as your main substrate. Some feel that a healthy and well cared for leopard gecko can consume and pass sand without any further complications.
Alternatives to Using Sand
If you don’t want to take the risk of using sand as the substrate in your leopard gecko enclosure, or if you just want something a little different and maybe easier for you, there are other alternatives. Paper towels are cheap, disposable, and easy to come by, but because they are thin, you will need to watch the surface temperatures so that the enclosure isn’t too hot. Reptile carpet is washable and you get two per pack, making it easy to swap out, but your leopard gecko’s toenails may get stuck in the threads. Ceramic or slate tiles come in a variety of colors and styles; they are easy to clean and are great heat conductors. Roll-out vinyl tile or shelf liner is another great option as it is easy to clean and comes in a variety of colors and styles. The Zoo Med Excavator is a product that hardens when it dries, so you don’t have the impaction concern, and you can create tunnels and hides within the ground that resemble a natural habitat. Be aware, though, that this material can be difficult (though not impossible) to get out of your enclosure once it hardens.
Types of Sand
If you are trying to be safe, and spot the calcium-based sand for reptiles on the shelf at the pet store, you’ll notice that it says digestible and great for reptiles. It’s not. When you pour water on the sand, it clumps as opposed to dissolving, which means when in the body, it does the same thing. There have even been studies and experiments where calcium carbonate sand has been soaked in an acidic solution, similar to the acid in the intestinal tract of a leopard gecko. Instead of dissolving, the sand sat there. A percentage of the sand had dissolved after a few days, but it took over a week for the entire amount of sand to dissolve in the acid solution. The fact that the sand dissolved is great, but in a leopard gecko, throughout the week when sand is dissolving, more sand would be digested adding to the collection in the intestinal tract, which would eventually just build. When the amount of acid in the body isn’t changing, yet the blockage is growing, it’s going to be hard to dissolve completely before a mild to severe impaction has developed. Even with proper housing, temperatures, and diet supplementation, calcium-based sand is not an advisable substrate to use. The bright dyes can potentially cause a problem, but the biggest concern is the sand. It just is not digestible. The calcium within the sand will actually entice the gecko to lick it, and once in the intestines, it will sit and create blockage.
Fine play sand is a common substrate choice for leopard geckos, whether it’s purchased in a large bag for $5 from a garden store or in small bags at the reptile store for $10. It’s generally the first substrate most beginner reptile owners will purchase. Some will stick with the fine grade sand, whereas others may change to an alternate substrate choice.
Whether in the wild or in captivity, grains of sand are not all the same. They’re not going to be perfect spheres that will pass through the body with ease, but if you’re going to use sand, try to find a fine grain sand. The larger, coarse grain sand can be harder to pass and easier to lodge in the body.
If you opt to use sand in your leopard gecko enclosure, try to white play sand without any dyes or additives, and certainly no added calcium or mineral deposits. The reptile sand is fine, but most have added dyes; plus it’s much more expensive than a bag of regular play sand.
Other Substrates That Aren’t Recommended for Leopard Geckos
Bark or wood chip could be a consideration for reptiles that require higher humidity, but with leopard geckos it’s not necessary to raise the humidity levels. Plus, there have been many cases where reptiles housed on bark have had to have the bark cut out of their body where it had lodged. Crickets can hide under the bark, making it hard to find, and it’s not ideal to leave uneaten food in the enclosure. Soil, Bed-a-Beast, and other dirt beddings are not the most sanitary options, as they are prone to housing mites and parasites. Mites can be a pain to get rid of once they’re in your home. Once again, you have the issue of raising the humidity using a dirt substrate. Walnut bedding, such as walnut cob, walnut litter, and walnut shells, are prone to bacteria growth. When the bedding is wet from the water bowl spilling, feces, or urates, bacteria and/or fungus will start to grow and will spread underneath the bedding. It’s also been reported that when the reptile defecates, the walnut shells may stick to the tissues around the bum, which can eventually retract into the body, causing inflammation, irritation, infection, and may damage to the digestive tract. If you choose to use a loose substrate, whether it be sand or another product, remember that no matter how closely you watch your reptile, you just can’t guarantee that it’s not ever licking at the substrate. An option is to feed in another enclosure, but again you can’t prevent the leopard gecko from licking the substrate ever.
The great sand debate will most likely never be resolved. Keepers who are informed about the pros and cons of either approach should be able to make the decision that is best for them and their leopard geckos.
Whitney LowellVisit Website
Whitney is a college student working on a degree in Political Science. She has been working with reptiles since 2002, focusing her interests in leopard geckos, crested geckos, rosy boas, Russian tortoises, and red foot tortoises. Her other interests include freelance writing and blogging, dog training, and surfing the web.

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12 Responses
2.23.2010
I have kept my leopards on slate tile for years with no problem. I measured the tank (a 40br..48×36 i believe) and went to home depot to pick up tiles. I layed them in the tank, making sure they fit well, then added a thin layer of wet repti-sand to the entire thing, to act as a natural grout. Usisng a paper towel, i rubbed the wet sand between the cracks of the tiles so they don’t move. This has worked VERY well for me and i have gotten Several compliments on how well my tank looks. To clean, i usually use water to spray down the tile and wipe away the poos, etc. Once a year i tear apart the tank and redo it with fresh sand and clean tile. hope this helps!
8.12.2010
i have a leopard gecko named ella. when she was a baby we first put in just the reptile carpet, because on the care guide we got from our petstore it said to wait until you gecko was six inches long before you put in the calcium sand. so when she was six inches long we got her the calcium sand. after about a week we noticed that she wasnt eating anything, so we called the vet, and it turns out she got compacted from the sand. luckily, we nursed her back to health (although that did include a huge vet bill, and force feeding her special high protein dog food the vet instructed us to give her through a syringe, along with giving her warm baths to help her eliminate, since her intestines were plugged with the sand.) now she is happy and healthy using her reptile carpet again.
9.6.2010
Our 3 yr old gecko has only been on carpet. He has been given small mealworms, has water in tank, humidity hide, with temps at 90 on warn side and 75 on cool side. 10 days ago started vomiting his worms whole, did poop in the first 5 days. Appt with reptile vet, have done barium xray with pictures taken over 3 days. No movement with the impaction. Giving warm bath with pedialyte and mineral oil. The vet doesn’t think he will survive surgery. Since today is Labor day, will have to wait till tuesday morning to take him in. I saw online about a vet clinic in Steamboat Springs that operated on a sand eating leopard geckco and it was sussessful. I am hoping the vet will try surgery. Any other ideas?
11.26.2010
Very helpful! I just set up a 55 gallon aquarium for a few adult female geckos, I have been told numerous different things… one of which being that sand is a fine substrate as long as the leo is 6 inches or longer, i dont want to risk it and would rather be safe.. I think i will try the slate idea! Also I wanted to run my setup by you all and see if it seems ideal..I have a 55 on a stand, i will be doing slate, a heat pad under the tank a hide spot on each side of the tank, a basking light with a dimmer, lots of driftwood and live succulant plants(non toxic) food and water dishes, i plan on having a dish for meal worms, feeding crickets, and a dish for calcium, i also have a self waterer and a humid box with moss..im wondering if there is anything i am forgeting?
Thanks everyone!
8.12.2011
I want to buy a leapord gecko , im wondering how much all of this will cost and if i can put a leopard gecko (or 2) in a large fish tank ?
8.16.2011
Great article. I’m so disappointed that even though so many geckos continue to die from impaction and impaction related issues that people still continue to sell calci-sand. My personal substrate of choice for years has been paper towels. Every other day I change the paper towels and once a month i disinfect the entire enclosure. Slate is awesome though and if I had a smaller collection or didn’t use a rack system I would go for that option over anything else.
4.8.2012
Thank you for the great article and reference to ExcavatorTM Clay Burrowing Substrate, this is what I want to use now thanks to your mentioning of it. Now just to track some down where I live. Thank you!
3.11.2013
I am so overwhelmed with the countless opinions on countless forums about whether or not to use sand.
I am so sick of all of the different answers that I am going to just not use sand anymore!
I like the slate tile idea, but please help me with this one question.
I have undertank heating and sometimes use an overhead ceramic bulb too, won’t the tile get super hot? And how will the heat from the undertank heater get through the tile?
Thank you
3.11.2013
Heat on tile – The tile spreads the heat fine. Use a digital thermometer with probe to check temps. If it’s too hot due to the UTH get a thermostat if the ceramic emitter is making things too hot get a lamp dimmer and adjust till the heat’s right