How to Breed Mealworms
OK here it is people: the BIG book on mealworms. I made it myself with all my photos. This is everything you need to know! my name is Heather and I have been breeding feeders for a few years including waxworms, superworms, silkworms,crickets and more! Meal worms however seem to be the biggest breeding group I have
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About Mealworms

Many people use them for reptiles and even other animals. Mealworms are fantastic feeders and there are many reasons why you might want to breed your own, since sometimes it’s hard to find mealworms at a local pet shop and when you do the prices are very high. After getting them you will be uncertain of how well they have been kept along with what they have been fed. Breeding your own mealworms can save you money and give you healthier, happier animals.
First you need a place to store your mealworms. Plastic bin multi-drawer units work very well for storing mealworms. There are many types of these plastic bins and they are just the thing for breeding mealworms. Now since you have your container we can talk about Mealworms!
5000 adult mealworms per drawer is a good number. However I do 10,000 because am running out of room! When choosing to breed mealworms you need to start with a hefty number of them so you can breed enough to feed your animals. 5,000 should be okay for someone with a rather small collection of animals. Remember breeding them takes a LONG time and months of work! It’s better to have extra mealworms to start with! Once you have your worms you need to store them in bedding. This will act as much of their diet and something for them to crawl around in. you can use wheat bran or rolled oats, along with many other forms of wheat and some cereals. There are also beddings made just for mealworms. I find that wheat bran is the best to use. It’s cheap and easy to find at local feed stores or even your own food store. Wheat bran is also tiny enough for your worms to eat and much easier to clean. Pour enough so there is an inch of wheat bran in your bin. 10,000 mealworms will eat just about a cup a day of wheat bran, so I usually begin with 3 cups and then replace it with new wheat bran every 5 days or so.

Cleaning
Your mealworm bins will need little cleaning. Bins should never ever be damp, grow mold, or have a moldy smell to them. Every so often you might need to replace bedding. Do this by taking the bin and 2 other empty bins to a table. Using a kitchen sifter,(this can be found in the kitchen supplies section at your local household store) place a small amount of worms and bedding at a time into the sifter and place it over one of the empty bins. Then shake and vibrate the sifter and you will notice the bedding falling in to the bin and keeping the worms in the sifter. Once cleared of all bedding, toss worms that remain in the sifter into the other empty bin. Repeat this step until all worms are in the other bin. Once you are done you can throw out the material you shook into the empty bin, which is actually poop left over by the worms. This is a good time to take the bin of worms and Hand pick out any food left behind, dead mealworms or pupa. Once the worms are cleaned, fill their other bin back up with New wheat bran then pour them back into their re-stocked bin.
Cleaning the worms Right: The bin I use to clean and handpick stuff out before placing them back into the main bin Middle:the main mealworm bin Left: i use this to sift out the old bedding, or even baby worms.
They love their veggies
Many people try to give the best to their feeders since it will pay off when they give the worms to their animals, and that couldn’t be more true. You should use veggies that are fresh. The number one thing to use and one of my preferred choices are raw potatoes and apples. Many people use other veggies but I find these work best. Raw cut-up potatoes are cheap and easy to find. Just cut them up and share among bins. Keep in mind that if your bins ever seem moist you may have added too much vegetable material. The food can be replaced as often as you feel it is necessary. The least nutritional “food” you can give your mealworms are water crystals: they are great for giving water but do not compare the high amounts of vitamins and such that veggies already have in them.
You can really use a variety of different things, even some carrots or greens. However keep away from peppers, onions, garlic or anything else with a strong flavor.

This is a bin of 10k+ mealworms. There is a whole apple in there and it will be gone by the next day. Remember, do not add too much food.
My mealworms are changing!

Pupae look ugly but they cannot hurt you, so be nice to the pupa because he needs you and you need him...or her.
After a few months of doing this you will begin to see pupae. No don’t worry. Your mealworms are fine. This is a good thing really because it’s the first step towards breeding. See, when you start to see this it would be wise to store about a month’s worth of mealworms in the fridge if you will need some of these mealworms to feed your animals. This will keep them from turning into pupae and you will use this stock while you’re waiting for the next generation. Do not stick them in the freezer! Pick out the pupae when you clean the bins as noted before and place them in another clean bin with no worms. They do not need and food or water However, I place mine on wheat bran because in a week or so they will hatch out into beetles.
The evil scary (darkling) beetle
First off, NO they can’t hurt you. They almost never fly, only when they are starving will they try to fly out of the bin. And you love your beetles right? So let’s feed them. Anyway, the pupa will turn in to beetles. In about a week from there on that bin will be their new home. keep placing new pupae in the bin as the mealworms change over.. These beetles are harmless and even easier to care for. Just feed every so often, the same thing you feed the mealworms. Around week 5 or 6 you should see your first very small babies. If not, wait longer. This can take months. Once you do start seeing very small babies it’s time to clean the bedding like you do with the worms but this time don’t throw anything away. Keep the babies in a new bin and replace the beetles’ bedding with new wheat bran. You can clean their bins again in another 5 weeks. (You can choose to clean more often or even less; this is all up to you). Keep cleaning and feeding your mealworms, beetles, and baby mealworms. Remember, the smaller the better. So what if you can’t see the mealworms very well? They should be super small. This lets them drop through the sifter when you sort out the beetles. Any bigger and it will not work. After you’ve separated the beetles out and you only have baby mealworm in the bin, feed them like all the rest, but remember babies can take months to grow up. The more you feed them the better they will grow.. However it will still make you want to pull out your hair!
Yes that’s a lot of beetles and trust me I have lots more bins to clean….
To separate or to not separate that is the question
Between mealworms, pupae, and beetles things can become a bit harder when you do not separate them. Every life stage will pick the other and even kill no matter how much food you give them. You will have a high death rate on all sides! They will eat one another. Maybe not all… but enough for you to go “Oh my gosh what happened”. It’s better to hand-pick the stages away from other groups. Bedding will stay much cleaner and there will be less of a death rate for pupae. When bins seem too full of whatever it may be or high death rates of beetles it’s a good thing to cull off some or pick out a few good ones. This way you can throw out the dead ones but still have some alive left over. Take a large bin and have a few handfulls at a time on one side then just pick up the live beetles that crawl to the other side. It goes faster if you have a light over them, but not too close or you can kill them.
Be your inner squirrel
The whole life cycle of a mealworm is very long. Even after you have beetles it can take months more to even be able to use the babies. This is why it’s always handy to start off with a lot of mealworms when breeding and to store some mealworms in the fridge. They will go into a dormant state and not turn into pupae, and when you’re all out of mealworms then you can use these mealworms for feeding. So in the end be a smart squirrel and store your mealworms!
Babies! Are we there yet???

After all this time you should see your baby mealworms growing into nice adults Yes it’s been a long road for us all. We have had some very touching moments and are ups and downs but we made it. So let’s not waste any time and feed them to your reptiles!
I hope this helps everyone that would like to breed mealworms what more could you need to know!!!!! ![]()
Heather ShuttVisit Website
Heather Shutt is the owner of crazytailreptiles.com. She breeds leopard geckos, crested geckos, corn snakes and even cave geckos and with all the geckos, breeding mealworms sure comes in handy. Along with the other feeders that she breeds, mealworms seem to be the biggest group she has. Sometimes she has upwards of 50,000 mealworms at a given time! Breeding and caring for reptiles is one of the best talents she has.

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36 Responses
10.11.2010
where do I store these bins? is the garage or outside too hot or too cold, do I need to store them indoors?
10.12.2010
The warmer the worms are kept (probably below the low 90′s is preferred) the faster they will grow and develop and, correspondingly, the colder they’re kept (not below fridge temp) the slower. If kept at fridge temps they’ll go dormant and not develop at all. Unless you live in a warm climate like FL or southern CA, they need to be kept indoors. They don’t smell, so if you use discreet, unmarked bins it shouldn’t bother other family members too much.
10.20.2010
so some of my meal worms have just turned into pupae I get that they will turn into beetles and then baby worms but for instance I have 12 pupae so I will eventually have 12 beetles and then from that point do I get a lot more baby worms that’s whats confusing me………. after the beetles what happens are there eggs or what?
10.20.2010
Each (female) beetle lays lots and lots of eggs which will fall into the edible substrate they are on (the eggs are too small to see easily). 12 beetles will make a lot of baby mealworms. Just follow the sorting and sifting instructions above as your baby mealworms appear and grow.
10.27.2010
good job on the website
10.27.2010
what food should you give the meal worms ( Apple Potato Carrot ect
10.27.2010
The information about what to feed the mealworms is in the article (grain based gutload; fruits and veggies for moisture).
10.29.2010
Alot of my pupae are dark black are they dead? also the ones that have just turned into beetles are laying on their back they appear to be alive but are they dying for some reason? and if so what could the problem be?
10.30.2010
Yes, black pupa are dead. If you’re not sure if one is dead, you can always pick it up or poke it gently. They will usually move if touched.
11.10.2010
I have approx 40 beetles right now and they have been together for 3 weeks or so…I know the eggs will be too small for me to see. One website stated you should separate the beetles from their current substrate (wheat bran) every couple weeks to prevent beetles from eating their layed eggs…is this true? Also if I dumb the beetle substrate (with the supposed eggs in it) into my mealworm colony will the mealworms eat the eggs? Thanks, Kim
11.10.2010
Yes, there will always be loses if you put babies or eggs with other beetles or worms, but you will still have some. its up to you either put them with nothing else or do
11.11.2010
I have about 20 beetles or so and only 3 are alive why are all my beetles dying? I followed the guidelines exactly what could be the problem?
11.11.2010
I was cleaning out my bin with the mealworms and I was scooping out some of the bedding and I noticed it was crawling it was the growest thing there are thousands of little bugs that look identical to the bedding crawling everywhere I never noticed it before what are these??? It look’s like my entire substrate is alive……….. these bins are in my closet in my house should I be concerned?
1.28.2011
do we need to drill holes at the side of the bin for ventilation?
do we need to drill holes for the container if we put mealworms into the refrigerator?
6.2.2011
this is great!!!!! five stars:D
7.6.2011
When you separate the eggs from the beetles is it ok to move them to a different container or should I just leave them. And if I used wheat bran and moistened it will it mold at all???..
Thanks, Tim.
10.10.2011
My pupae appear to die more often than live. When I discover them amongst the bran bedding of the worms they are usually dead.
Why is this? I notice you’ve been asked this question before, but I don’t see an answer posted.
10.16.2011
Thanks for your great site. I’m just getting started with mealworms.
1.3.2012
I have one leopard gecko and may get some more in the future. I have contemplated breeding mealworms but I am wondering if it is worth it because I only have one gecko, and if it is worth it how many should I start with to make sure the colony doesn’t get too large. Thanks
1.27.2012
why does the beatles want to stay on their back
5.15.2012
I have recently started breeding mealworms and I have a question for you. I was wondering at what size could I put the baby mealworms with the adult mealworms?
6.19.2012
I have just startes to breed with meal worms and super worms , I was wondering dus it help putting stress on the worms to force the Papu stage?
8.7.2012
I have a couple questions for you.
I have been breeding for a while and all of my babies look black but they are moving. They are not orange like yours. Am I doing something wrong?
I have a couple bins full of babies but a couple weeks after they are put in their, everything seems dead. I can’t see anything moving. What can I do so I DONT see that?
How often should I feed them? As soon as they eat a carrot should I put another one in their?
Thanks
8.7.2012
Any help would be appreciated!
8.25.2012
This info is really helpful, I just started breeding because I have a leopard gecko and some of my neighbors said they would pay me for some mealworms if I breed them myself. So anyways before I knew about breeding i got a whole bunch of larvae that turned into uber-creepy reddish white beetles that turned into the black ones. Is this normal?
8.27.2012
Yes, that’s exactly what’s supposed to happen.
9.8.2012
I have 2 bins of meal worms, I don’t clean or separate them. I’m afraid if i clean them I will loose the eggs and babies. I have mine in oats and corn meal. They seem to bread much faster then this site says though. I do remove the beadles to a different bin though.
I usually feed them apples and green beans.
I don’t need thousands but I do need the very small meal worms for my baby fence lizards.
My question is, Have I been doing this wrong for the past 5 yeas o so????
Love the site but running my web site fantasybeader takes so much time, plus having 3 kids
I am not able to spend time cleaning etc as much as this site says. But i don’t want 5-10k of them either.
Any advice?
10.21.2012
This site is very helpfull thnx but i have a question i have a year old beardie ive been breeding my own worms for a few months now keep them in a small glas fish bowl only in crumbed weatbix and weat meel i have a lot of beetles but my worms dont populate they only get smaller by the number am i doing something wrong?
1.19.2013
What do I do with all the beatles after they have reproduced? Can my leopard gecko eat them or not?
1.19.2013
Your gecko will probably not eat them. Keep the beetles and let them reproduce until they die. They don’t live that long so your problem should solve itself.
2.3.2013
thanks.. very helpful.. i also had it in mind, can my sugar glider eat the black beetle?
2.9.2013
Those wishing more comprehensive (or at least more opinions! LOL!) info on mealies, head over to the Mealworm Farming thread over on BackYardChickens.com . Five hundred plus pages of relevant posts, some dead serious, others..well, they’ll get you grinning.
Highly recommended!
Lily: Look up ‘grain mites’ and ‘substrate heating’ in the mealworm thread I mentioned above. Best bet and good luck. Get the humidity down and do your best to containerize the problem–you may have to restart your colony.
This may also be part of your beetle survival issue.
Ventilation: In general, as long as there is no condensation within the container and the odor is not unpleasant, there is probably enough air. If in doubt, put a few square inches of metal screen mesh into the lid. When refrigerated, many open containers dry out–so watch your critters closely, take them out about once or twice a week and let them warm up and gnaw on a veggie for a few hours before re-storing. It will help, but they don’t live forever.
Mixing ages/developmental stages: In general, people tend to start with larva, which change to pupa, which then get moved to a safe place to hatch into beetles. The larvae can and will eat pupae as well as eggs, so if you don’t move them, you are going to lose some.
Lizard lover–if it gets you the product you need, it’s not ‘wrong’ in this case! More along the lines of ‘if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it.’ Enjoy!
Once matured from pupa to beetle, yes, many wind up on their backs. At first I will go through and flip them upright but most wind up the same way again, so I quit bothering. Between their wingcases and other beetles, they will eventually figure it out. I remove the beetles to their own new container, and stop adding beetles when it looks like there are enough in there, then I start a new beetle bin. These beetles can live for quite a few months, so about once a month (in summer) I simply move the beetles to a new container, where they breed and lay some more. (Hint: The more often you move them, the shorter a time frame it will take to hatch out aaallll the eggs in the container and your worms will be more uniform in size.)
The ‘old’ beetle box is now a ‘new’ larva box, set aside with a carrot or two to grow and completely ignored until the worms are the size I need or until they need fresh veggies. And then round and round it goes.
Hard lesson learned: ALWAYS, ALWAYS WEAR A MASK WHEN WORKING WITH MEALWORMS! The dust and microscopic fragments of bug can provoke severe respiratory issues. No joke, at ALL. I’m permanently on an inhaler now, so please learn from my experience, and anyone working around the mealies, especially including kids, mask up!
I also moved mine outdoors ASAP, which helped considerably.
Good luck everyone!.
2.27.2013
I start running my mealworms breeding. I’ve been feeding them every three days (potatoes, carrots and bread) … Their temperature has been between 70 to 85… depending if its night time or day time.
Since i got them, i’ve been pretty careful about controling everything, and there’s one thing that is happening,,, every day i’ve been having almost 20 to 30 death mealwomrs (they look dark and dry)… I really don’t understant what’s going on…. i’ve been taking out all the death ones daily …. It is ok???
Is the temperature what is killing them??? I got them on my reptile room, cause don’t have any other worm place for them… but i have a termometer to control it.
Please answer to me ASAP
Thanks so much!!!
2.27.2013
I’m not the author, but I’ll venture some guesses. Are you sure you’re feeding them enough? Is there any chance the bread is stuffing them up? I used to make my own gutload by getting seeds and grains from the organic store and putting them in the blender. The mealworms started dying because the stuff I was using was too oily and it stuffed their mouths up (I guess). If you’re giving them chunks of stuff, they may not have enough places to bury themselves. Consider grinding up some unsweetened cereal and oats (or buying pre-made gutload), giving them about 1/2″ of it on the bottom of the enclosure and putting the chunks of veggies on top and see if that helps.
3.7.2013
Great information . Many thanks .
Around half of my beetles are hatching with deformed / shrunken wing cases . Could it be because I am keeping the pupae too dry ? They are bedded in porridge oats with nothing to add moisture .
3.7.2013
It’s possible–might try splitting up your pupae, one with a carrot in there and one without…see what happens. Or take all the bedding out–they don’t need it…a very small amount is all that’s needed until you get the hatched beetles moved out. Suggest you check the backyard chickens thread for more ideas.